Some of the seeds come up in a few weeks; a few, in fact, in less than ten days, where conditions are favorable; others, as we have seen, require several months. It is well to group them, when planting, upon this basis, so that all those which will be ready for transplanting early may be removed together.

In one group, for instance, may be planted the following, which will usually germinate within three weeks and be ready for transplanting within three to six weeks more:

Alyssum, arabis, aubrietia, arenaria, armeria, achillea, anthemis, bellis, columbine (aquilegia), cerastium, delphinium, draba, erinus, forget-me-not (myosotis), gypsophila, linaria, linum, lichnis, lupine, pansies, poppies, potentilla, silene,

saponaria.

Those which are likely to take longer, some of them six to eight weeks, are as follows:

Aster, androsace, allium, asperula, campanula, clematis, coridalis, cutisis, erodium, eryngium, erigeron, genista, geranium, geum, helianthemum, heuchera, houstonia, hypericum, iberis, iris, oenothera, primula, saxifrage, sedum, thymus, thalictrum, viola.

The above, of course, are based on early spring planting. Time out, for seeds which stratify in the seed bed over winter, does not count. These over-winter seeds need no protection from snow-the more snow which piles up in the frames the better. The sash may be left on, but not closed tight, during November and December, to protect the seeds from the heavy rains which often occur at this season.

Bog Plants

Bog-plant seeds germinate best upon a surface not only moist but actually damp. A mixture of one-third each chopped sphagnum moss, peatmoss, and sand makes good compost in which to grow them. If this is placed in seed pans or azalea pots, and these are kept in deep saucers constantly filled with water and sheltered from direct sunshine, the seeds will have conditions to their liking. Also consider wall water falls (http://www.garden-fountains.com/Detail.bok?no=3408) that can provide constant moisture.

Transplanting

If the soil mixtures suggested above have been used, there will be few weeds to bother with, and unless the seed has been sown too thickly, little thinning will be necessary before the seedlings are big enough to transplant. If they come up too thickly, however, thin out immediately. This is most important.

For transplanting, make a bed in a well-drained spot, using a compost for the top four to six inches, or digging into the soil, if it is light, clean garden loam to start with, a layer equivalent to two to three inches of peat moss, an inch or so of sand or fine gravel, and a little very thoroughly decomposed manure. If the latter is not available, leaf mold and a light dressing of bone meal may be used as a substitute for it.

This amount of material added will somewhat raise the level of the bed, which is desirable. A six-inch board, bricks laid end to end, or small stones, will hold it neatly in place. Transfer the little seedlings carefully, placing them four to six inches apart each way, according to their size and the length of time they are likely to remain before being transferred to their permanent position in the rock garden or elsewhere amongst outdoor fountains (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4o1SuaQJsI).

Here, again, the lath screens for shading come into play; supported on a low framework a foot to a foot and a half above the surface, they will protect the little plants from too much sunshine and break the force of beating rains. For some of the plants, such as the thick, woolly-leaved alpines, which are particularly sensitive about coming into contact with moist soil, a little fine gravel can be worked about and between them, after transplanting.

Spring is creeping in, hallelujah, and it’s time for us to start digging in the dirt. For all of you frustrated gardeners that live in colder climes I bet you can’t wait to start planting your garden beds with flowers, herbs and vegetables. Over the long winter you forget how much you miss those showy blooms and the riot of color a beautiful garden can supply.

If you live up north, there are a variety of ways to cope with the short growing season. Frost, which can happen as late as May or June, delays your plans for planting seeds. With the many quick growing plants this does not pose a problem but with vegetables and ornamentals a little head start is very helpful for healthy lush plants.

Starting those plants indoors solves the problem of unwelcome frost. Getting an early start indoors will really make a difference for frost intolerant plants. Another benefit of starting seeds indoors is that as soon as the frost danger has passed, you can plant your seedlings into your garden giving you a good extra month of gorgeous blooming flowers.

When starting seeds indoors, you must simulate the same conditions as those planted outside. Your basics for all plant life, whether inside or out, are soil, water and light. The difference is that your indoor seedlings will need a little more attention and each plant will have its own considerations.

Always start with sterilized soil, this is essential. There is a fungus known as Damping-off-Disease that can wipe out your hard work in a matter of days. For some reason the propagation of plants indoors allows just the right conditions for the spores of these fungi to grow rampantly.

You can easily avoid this plight by using sterile soil or a sterile medium. You can use your own soil but it involves a lot of work and may not be worth the effort when commercial mediums are readily available. To use your own soil, you must sterilize it in the oven after sifting out the clumps and debris. Most commercial mediums sometimes referred to as “soil less” are usually a combination of peat moss and vermiculite. When using these mediums make sure it is clearly marked on the bag that they are sterilized.

After deciding the medium that you will use, there are a variety of containers available to start your seeds. I have used flats, peat pots, dixie cups and even egg cartons successfully. As with any plant, the size of the container used is determined by the plant you are growing and only experience can guide you here.

Seedlings require an enormous amount of light, either sunlight or artificial light or a combination of both. If they don’t get sufficient light the plants will get “leggy” or “spindly”, denying them a healthy start on the way to your garden. Even in a bright window with a lot of sun you may still need to use artificial light. If you do need to use artificial light, buy bulbs that are manufactured specifically for that purpose. Even though they are for the singular purpose of growing plants you still must keep them on for at least fourteen (14) hours a day. No artificial light can compensate for the intensity of direct sunlight.

The most important element of growing your seedlings indoors is watching the moisture. They must be kept moist but not soggy. The most advantageous way to water is from the bottom. Set your pots in a tray and pour the water into the tray allowing the pots to soak up all of the water. Never let your pots stand in water as this will cause them to rot. If you have your pots in a very sunny window place them in a tray with gravel. Keep the gravel “watered” just under the pots to keep them from drying out.

When you first start your seedlings cover them tightly with plastic wrap. This helps to maintain warmth and moisture, but be careful to uncover them when they begin to sprout so they don’t smother.

I know you may become anxious in January to start getting ready for planting season but it is important not to start you seeds indoors to early. If they outgrow your pots, you will have to thin them and transplant them to bigger containers. This is not the best scenario. For best results, you want to transplant them once outdoors as soon as they are large and healthy enough to survive. A good rule of thumb to start with is four to six weeks after sowing the seeds, making sure they have at least two sets of leaves. Right before transplanting your thriving seedlings, feed them with a very weak solution of a water soluble fertilizer to give them strength through the transplanting process.

Keep a diary on what has worked for you, since experience is always the best teacher. Experiment a little each year with one or two new flowers, herbs or vegetables, this will add variety and spice to your garden. Go to gardening forums on the internet and join the group, the experiences of others is always helpful and the spirit of community is enjoyable and satisfying.

Happy Planting!

Have you noticed how expensive nursery – bought plants are these days? You can avoid spending your hard earned money. With a little planning and some small effort you can grow your own plants from seed. It’s simple and fun.

Spring is almost here – now is the time to get started. If you have children here is an excellent way to pique their interest in gardening. Kids do love learning new things and you will be cultivating a life long habit.

First, plan your garden. Determine what kind and how many of each plant you want to grow. Take into account such factors as sun, soil, and the length of the growing season in your area. Not all plants are suitable for all areas. (Most seed packs have charts to give you tips as to suitability for your region.) Plant some extras – not every seed will sprout.

Will you be growing your own vegetables this year? Consider doing so organically. Want some fresh tomatoes all summer? How about some herbs or peppers? These and others can be started now to plant in a month or so in your garden. I like to start my own tomatoes as I can pick the varieties I want to stagger the yields throughout the summer and into the fall.

I start my summer flowers now to ensure I have plenty to put in hanging baskets and in the garden; I always have a few spares in case I need to replace any plant that dies or is eaten by a wayward rabbit or voracious caterpillar.

When you purchase your seeds, don’t buy the cheapest ones as they may not be as good as those costing a few dimes more. There are good seed companies out there such as Burpee, Park, and others. Buy a reputable company’s seeds. Check the dates on the seed packs to be sure they have not expired although I have successfully grown seeds from packages I’ve kept from the past year.

To begin you will need a good quality planting mix. Most nurseries carry a seed starting mix which is ideal. The soil should be light and somewhat fine. Don’t use composted manures as they are too nitrogen rich for your seeds at this point and will burn them. I add dry worm castings to the mix to provide organic, slow release, gentle food for the seeds as they germinate.

You will need small individual pots to plant them in. You can buy these reasonably priced at nurseries or garden centers. There are even biodegradable pots made from cow manure and even worm castings which allow you to plant them directly into the ground when your seedlings have grown enough and the outdoor temperatures will allow it. However, I am forever saving little pots such as yogurt containers and the like from my own home and reusing them. See, you can recycle this way and save yourself money, too. Great lesson for your kids to observe. Not everything goes into the garbage!

When you are ready to go, soak your seeds overnight in a solution of liquid worm castings (worm tea). You might even warm the solution to just above room temperature. I use an organic product containing yucca extract because yucca is a wetting agent. It makes water ‘wetter’ and will soften the seed pods and allow the seed embryos to absorb some nutrients while still in their pod. This procedure will speed up the germination period of the seed by sometimes half. (For instance, I’ve soaked pansy seeds with a 14 – 17 day germination period; they were up in 5 days.)

Fill your planting pots about ¾ full with your planting mix moistening the soil generously but not to the point it is soggy. (Be sure your pots have ample drainage holes in them.) Tap them lightly to settle the soil removing any air pockets.

Once your seeds have soaked for at least eight hours, and not much longer, you are ready to plant them. Pay close attention to the planting instructions on the package and follow them. Don’t plant too deeply nor too shallow. You needn’t be exact to the point of worry, but try to be within a reasonable measure of what’s suggested. Plant up to three seeds per container as you can cull out the excess plants later keeping the biggest and healthiest.

After you’ve planted your seeds, cover the containers with a clear plastic baggie such as any zip lock freezer bags. Put the baggie on from the top with the opening at the bottom of the pot. You needn’t seal it as you will need to allow for some circulation. Doing this creates your own ‘green house’ for each individual pot. Moisture stays in and condenses on the baggie dripping back into the soil. Also, the temperature is warm and the air moist inside the bag.

Place the planted pots outside, if possible, into a well lit area though be careful of direct sunlight as you do not want the little ‘green house’ you have created to overheat. If you are in a cold climate and the outside temperature dips at night, keep your little ‘babies’ inside perhaps near a window for light. I like to put mine on a window sill, but not one where the exposure to sun is excessive. Some use grow lights, but this is unnecessary and defeats the purpose of saving you money.

Keep a close eye on your efforts. You will shortly see your seeds peek up from the soil – an exhilarating moment for you. You have created life! You will notice droplets of water on the inside of the baggies; this is good. If not, check the soil moisture. If it is drying, use a hand held spray bottle and spray with water until moist. I dilute a liquid worm castings solution and spray with that. It will not burn the seedlings and will give them a slight feeding at a young age.

You will be amazed at how fast your seedlings grow. Within weeks they will be ready to plant outside in your garden. You have done it – you are now a master gardener. Happy gardening and enjoy the money you have saved.

(More information on gardening organically and using worm castings/worm tea is available at www.naturesbigbud.com.)